Tuesday, April 7, 2015

Punta Arenas (not), Glacier Alley, and Ushuaia

We went to bed last night looking forward to a scenic hike in a forest called Reserva Magellan in Punta Arenas. We wake up and immediately know something is wrong. What is that noise?? I look out the window, see lots of waves moving in the same direction, and realize the sound we are hearing is the wind whipping around outside. Soon the announcement comes from the captain--unexpected 70-80 mph winds, port is closed, we'll keep you informed. Translation: yet another day ashore has been cancelled.

And that means another day at sea. SIGH----. This is turning into a repositioning cruise! I give major props to the ship's staff, especially the food and beverage employees, when shenanigans like this happen. They're expecting a quiet day with most of the passengers ashore. Then, like firemen, they've gotta instantly get it in gear because everybody is still here.

Of course a new activity sheet is soon in our mailbox, but choices that seemed like fun a few days ago are looking a bit stale. We resist the temptation to participate in "Target Toss with Show Host Mike" or to receive our free tongue and pulse analysis. In fact the whole day passes and, except for attending the Marriage Game we somehow manage to not do a damn thing. Dinner, a disappointing production show, and we go to bed hoping for a better day tomorrow.

And we are not disappointed. We're awakened to an announcement that we are in the Beagle Channel and "Glacier Alley," so we quickly get dressed and go out to the bow for spectacular views on a bracing and glorious morning. Here are several photos to give you an idea.






After lunch we arrive at Ushuaia, the "City at the End of the World," for a wildlife tour.


The Weather Gods continue to smile on us with blue skies and calm waters.


Our first stop is Alicia Island, which is packed with sea lions.


We are in a small boat and able to get really close.



Next we cruise over to aptly named Bird Island, home to king and imperial shags.



We go past Les Eclaireurs Lighthouse


on the way to a short hike on Bridges Island, where at its highest point we are treated to spectacular views of the Beagle Channel and Patagonian mountains.





Now this is what we came all this way to see! What a fantastic day. We are exhausted from our long and busy day so we eat an early dinner and get ready for----another sea day!



Saturday, April 4, 2015

Cruise time!

After knocking around on land for a week we were ready to get our cruise on! We had heard tales of possible 30 foot swells, so we'd booked an inside cabin in the middle of the ship. The day before boarding, however, I called Holland America and inquired about possible upgrades. When I was offered a bigger stateroom with a large window for less than $100 we decided to take our chances and said "Hell, yes!."

By mid-afternoon we were aboard.


Our stateroom was bigger and nicer than we had imagined. We unpacked and wandered around to get our bearings on what was where. There were about 15 other folks from Cuenca on this cruise and we randomly bumped into many of them. That first night we watched the production show with the onboard entertainers and were nostalgic about our daughter performing on just such a stage with her first job out of college.

Our first full day was at sea. We quickly learned not to go to the Lido buffet during prime time. As was repeated throughout the entire cruise, too many of our fellow passengers behaved as if they were death row inmates and that every single meal was to be their last, pushing and breaking in line to pile plates with food. I kept thinking, "They'll bring out more; you can get another plate and come back." It was bizarre.

We also discovered that morning a spot where we could always be guaranteed separation from at least 1190 of the 1200 passengers--the gym. The Lido may have been swarming like a kicked ant hill, ah but here, just a handful of exercisers. We kidded ourselves beforehand saying we would kind of "ease into" our two weeks on board, but that just isn't how we roll. No, after breakfast and our workout I'm off for a tour of the ship's kitchen--Cynthia's at a Champagne Art Auction--we're taking dance lessons. What the heck--we're here to have fun!

That night is the first of three formal nights, and I must say Cynthia was stunning.


We had a big day lined up for our stop the next morning in Puerto Montt. This is the Chilean lake country and several of us planned to rent cars and take in as much scenery as possible.

The smell of smoke is something you never want to wake up to on a cruise ship. I lay in bed waiting for the "go to the lifeboats" alarm, then looked out the window and saw we were already at our destination. Turns out there were major wildfires nearby that sadly kept us from going ashore. Oh, well, an unexpected sea day-----.

Our next stop, Puerto Chacabuco, was by no means “picturesque.” The little town is frankly a dump, but it’s the last possible place for a cruise ship to stop before heading into glacier country. We hired a taxi with another couple and went off into the countryside. It was quickly evident that whether in a big tour bus, a van, or a taxi, there was one route everyone took, so we were glad we chose a more frugal option.

The terrain at times looked like Ecuador—Italy—Switzerland, with very green (it rains every day) and unfamiliar vegetation. We stopped at a waterfall


and a couple of scenic overlooks



before ending up in the town of Coyhaique for lunch and an hour walk-around. Not an outstanding tour but it was good to get off the boat and briefly see a different part of the world.

The scenery at day's end was really special from the Crow's Nest bar.



Before dinner many evenings Cynthia and I would drop by the Martini Bar. We drank more martinis on this cruise than we have in our entire lives! Why? Because each night there was a $3 special on two different cocktails and, while listening to the piano/violin duo who played each evening, it was a fun and inexpensive way to sit around being "sophisticated."

We went to bed early since rough seas were correctly predicted. It was a fitful night with high seas, lots of rocking, opening and closing drawers, and a banging medicine cabinet door.



The next morning was more of the same. Room service delivered our standard coffee/tea order. A couple of minutes later it crashed to the floor—broken dishes, spilled coffee—oof. Once we headed into the fjord passages things quickly settled down and we enjoyed a quiet day learning to cha-cha, going to Dutch High Tea, and seeing an old ship wreck


and our first glacier.


Another sea day. What does that look like for the Staton's? Oh, the usual--yoga in the gym—late breakfast—cooking demo in the Culinary Arts Center—long mid-day nap—relax in the hot tub—light lunch—hang out in stateroom reading.

Here’s something interesting for us about ship life—you get lots of mail every day! Over the last five years we’ve gotten maybe ten pieces of mail in Cuenca, so it’s awesome to find items in the “mailbox” outside our stateroom all throughout the day.

Another thing: having everything done for you is quickly addictive. Coffee is delivered right on time each morning—your room is always clean with fresh towels in the bathroom—no food to prepare (or even think about)—for sure no damn dishes to wash. You don’t even really have to plan your day; you only choose what someone else has already arranged for you.

Big hike planned at our stop tomorrow. Let's pick up the narrative there next time.





Thursday, April 2, 2015

Casablanca Valley, Viña del Mar, and Valparaiso

Santiago is ideally positioned within easy driving distance of numerous valleys where excellent Chilean wine is produced. Our guide Carola Neubauer picked us up early for a day in the Casablanca Valley en route to our next stop in Viña del Mar on the coast. I can't say enough good things about Carola, by the way. She met us at the airport, took us on a private city tour, and was now showing us around the wine country. She became a good friend and I highly recommend her (carola.neubauer@gmail.com) if you are in Santiago.

Casablanca Valley is Chile's newest wine region and, because of the cool coastal breezes, specializes in whites (although Pinot Noir has recently been introduced). You perhaps have visited or seen photos of the rolling hills of the vineyards in California and Oregon. We were surprised to find the terrain in Casablanca quite flat and dry.


Our first stop was Veramonte, a modern winery that has been open for almost 20 years.


We were fortunate to arrive just as a large group was leaving, so we enjoyed a private tour of the facilities.


And a private tasting.


Next we were off to lunch at Indomita winery, perched high on a hill and better known for its restaurant than its wines.


The reviews I had read didn't disappoint. We enjoyed a fab meal with lovely views of the valley.



Our final stop in Casablanca was Viña Mar, a boutique winery with no distribution in the US. The main building was gorgeous,


and after another private tasting we were in a great mood.


On to our oceanfront apartment in Viña del Mar, a resort area that borders the bay at Valparaiso where we would board the cruise ship. What a find this place was--killer views and perfect hosts. Carolina sure knew how to get the day off to a great start!


And each evening we were treated to spectacular Pacific sunsets.


We were doubly fortunate to discover that Carolina's husband Michael was a highly-regarded tour guide known as The German Pirate. With a moniker like that how could you go wrong, so the next morning we joined him and two other couples to explore Valparaiso.


Michael explained how the economy of Valparaiso, once an important port for ships to and from Europe, was devastated when the Panama Canal opened and the South American coast was immediately abandoned as a shipping route. It was so interesting to gain an understanding of this event from a totally different perspective.

Although Valparaiso shares with Cuenca the designation of a UNESCO World Heritage site, I found the city to be gritty and dodgy. While renowned for its high quality street art,



a lot of the streets were filled with graffiti and looked like this.



Valparaiso is built into the sides of hills surrounding the bay. Cable cars sit in strategic locations to get folks up and down.


Building exteriors were often constructed from corrugated sheet metal. To me it was an odd look even though lots of them are colorfully painted.


It's always enriching to visit and learn about other places, and one day in Valpariaso was just enough. On the way back to our apartment I discovered a startling treasure that put a big grin on my face!


Next up: cruising around the horn of South America!





Saturday, March 28, 2015

Back Home

The unpacking is done--there's food in the refrigerator again--the washer and dryer are cranking--yes, we're back in Cuenca after a month away. I gave you a quickie overview of Santiago before we headed to the coast en route to the cruise ship. In the coming days I want to go back and relive our journey with you. When we were on land our schedules were too busy, and while I had time to write on the boat Internet access was prohibitively expensive (75 cents a minute--ouch!).

I did jot down daily notes and of course took tons of photos, all of which I look forward to sharing with you. For now I'll recap life in Casa Staton since we returned three nights ago.

Wednesday We got up at 4:30 AM (not our favorite way to start the day) in Buenos Aires to go to the airport. We (SPOILER ALERT) absolutely loved the city, but I must say the international airport is the worst I've ever experienced. Oddly the lights weren't even on inside when we arrived, and the carpet was worn completely down to the rubber backing in many areas. That "Extreme Makeover" dude needs to pay this dump a surprise visit.

Good news: our flight to Guayaquil was nonstop. Bad news: the legroom on the plane must have been the absolute minimum allowed by law. At 6'3" I could barely fit the space (which inevitably got smaller when the person in front of me reclined his seat). Thank goodness I managed to fall asleep twice to shorten the awareness of my discomfort.

As an aside, don't you just love trying to eat your meal within the straightjacket confines of your seat on a plane? Your elbows are almost touching as you carefully, carefully raise each bite of food slowly towards your mouth. You know if anything drops into your lap it's doomed to stay there until the end of the flight. You start taking the tops off of everything and unwrapping your silverware but then where do you put the trash? There's only about a one inch picture frame of tray table peeking out from around your plate and drink, so you have to wade up the trash, reach around all your now-exposed stuff, pray you don't knock anything over, and cram it all next to the magazine. What a lovely dining experience!

Anyway, we finally got out of the taxi around 9 PM and the moment I always look forward to the most about coming home was upon me-- lugging all the heavy luggage (wonder if that's where the verb 'to lug' came from?) up four flight of stairs to our apartment. That accomplished, we unpacked just enough to get ready for bed and take a nice hot shower.

H-m-m-m---no water. Really???

I go downstairs to ask our neighbor what's up and she says there was a leak in our apartment while we were gone that came through her ceiling. She thinks the problem was fixed but apparently the landlord forgot to turn our water back on. I'm not having any of this, so we go down to the basement, wake up the building caretakers and make them turn us back on. While I'm down there I notice that one of our gas tanks is empty and the other one is fumes away from the same condition, which reminds me that the tank I paid for before we left in February was never delivered. Resolving this is so tomorrow--we take quickie showers and fall into bed.

Thursday After sleeping 10 hours we still feel like hell. All the traveling plus being at altitude once again require serious rest. I ignore this and plan a productive day: get the gas situation resolved, go to the gym, go to the grocery store. Well—-I do get a promise for gas to be delivered, then we hit the wall and go back to bed only a couple of hours after we had gotten up.

Reasonably refreshed from a long nap, I go get some sandwiches from a guy up the street, we eat lunch, and I manage to go to the store. That gym idea will have to wait. Nobody feels like cooking so I have yet another sandwich and am so mentally numb I don’t even remember what Cynthia ate. We watch episodes of DWTS and House of Cards I downloaded before hitting the hay.

Friday Another good night’s sleep and we’re starting to feel human again. Cynthia devotes herself to unpacking and today I make it to the gym. Quiet afternoon doing our own things, then we’re off to a Mexican fiesta party at friends. We haven’t had a taste for wine after drinking so damn much of it the last month but those margaritas sure were good! We danced the Macerena and the Hustle, caught up with friends, got home at a decent hour.

Today The margaritas, dancing, and socializing apparently took a toll. We got up this morning 11 hours after bedtime! I took care of business with a hard core yoga session and Cynthia has the washer and dryer humming. The gym visit yesterday and today's yoga confirmed what I already knew--after a month of conspicuous over-consumption and generally poor health habits my body is a train wreck. On a positive note, all of that debauchery somehow only translated into a weight gain of two pounds, which should be gone by the end of the weekend.

We came home looking forward to "taking it easy." Party last night--symphony tonight--lunch with friends tomorrow--going out dancing Tuesday---well, at least we don't have anything planned for Monday.

Yet.

More on the trip soon.




Monday, March 2, 2015

Santiago

We've spent four nights here and are about to head out to the wine region of Casablanca valley today on the way to Vina del Mar and Valparaiso. So a quick recap with some photos before our guide arrives. Our apartment couldn't have been better chosen. It's on the 25th floor with this view of the city from the rooftop pool two stories up.


Our location is only minutes from so many of Santiago's "must-see" historical sites, plus lots of restaurants and a subway stop.





We visited as many neighborhoods as we could. Upscale Lastarria



Funky Bellavista


Modern Las Condes and preppy Providencia



On our last day we went to the Museum of Fine Arts



Ate lunch at La Rosa Emporium, famous for the best ice cream in town


and finished the day with a stroll through the Paris/London section.



We covered a LOT of territory in a short amount of time. Santiago, a sprawling metropolis of 6 1/2 million people, is somewhat like LA--temperate weather and low humidity + a serious smog problem. In every way a first world city, Santiago was a wonderful destination for an enriching visit. Prices are not cheap, but we enjoyed the cultural activities and for sure the amazing food and wine.

So thank you, Santiago, for a great start to our trip!